TO BAKE, BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH, CAKE AND DESSERT TO BAKE, BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH, CAKE AND DESSERT

Sunday Profiteroles! Vanilla Cream Puffs with Figs, Pears and Blackberries

There's something wonderfully old-fashioned about profiteroles - or cream puffs. And they look so voluptuous. Generously filled with vanilla cream, ripe figs, pears, and blackberries they are anything but a simple teatime sweet. This creation calls for a pretty coffee table, delicate porcelain, frilly napkins, and table cloth, my granny Annie would have loved it! She was very much into extravagant Sunday afternoon treats, she used to welcome her guests all dressed up, with lipstick and jewelery. Her Frankfurt Crown Cake - the German Frankfurter Kranz - is a legendary masterpiece, delicious and opulent, it was the star of many coffee tables in my childhood.

Airy choux pastry, golden and crisp, is the secret of a good profiterole. Be it in an elegant oblong éclair or a baroque shaped Windbeutel (meaning cream puff in German), the pastry needs to rise like a ballon but then keep its shape and not deflate. To get there stress-free, there are two rules to obey: the door of the oven should never be opened while the pastry is baking; and, once it's done, the little puff balls have to stay in the oven with the door closed for a few minutes to dry and build up structure. After they cooled off a little they are more robust than they may seem, which is helpful as they have to carry quite a rich filling.

Vanilla Cream Puffs with Figs, Pears and Blackberries

For 12 cream puffs you need

For the vanilla cream

  • milk 350ml / 1 1/2 cups

  • large egg yolks 2

  • granulated sugar 80g / 1/3 cup and 1 tablespoon

  • a pinch of salt

  • cornstarch 30g / 1/4 cup

  • vanilla pod, slit, 1

  • heavy cream, whipped, 100ml / 1/3 cup and 2 tablespoons

For the choux pastry

  • butter 80g / 3 ounces

  • granulated sugar 4 teaspoons

  • a pinch of salt

  • milk 90ml / 1 /3 cup and 1 tablespoon

  • water 90ml 1 /3 cup and 1 tablespoon

  • all-purpose flour, sieved, 130g / 1 cup

  • large eggs 3

For the fruit filling

  • crisp pear, cut into slim wedges, 1

  • ripe figs, cut into slim wedges, 6

  • blackberries, a small handful

  • icing sugar, for the topping (optional)

For the vanilla cream, whisk 4 tablespoons of the milk with the egg yolks, sugar, salt and cornstarch until well combined. In a saucepan, bring the remaining milk with the vanilla pod to the boil. Take the vanilla pod out and scrape the seeds out of the bean into the milk. Add the egg-sugar mixture to the hot milk, whisking well. Take the saucepan off the heat immediately and whisk for another minute. If it crumbles, whisk in a little more milk. Let the cream cool and then chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. Once it's cool, whip the heavy cream and fold into the vanilla cream gently. Keep the vanilla cream in the fridge until you fill the choux pastry.

Set the oven to 200°C ( 400°F) (top / bottom heat) and line a baking sheet with baking paper.

For the dough, bring the butter, sugar, salt, milk and water gently to the boil. When the butter has melted, stir in the flour vigorously with a wooden spoon, mix until smooth and the dough comes away from the side of the pan. Transfer the dough to a bowl and let it cool for about 10 minutes. Beat the eggs in with a spoon, one at a time, only mix in the next one when the one before is well combined.

Fill the dough in a piping bag with a wide nozzle and pipe the mixture into 12 balls. Bake in the oven for about 19 minutes or until golden brown and crisp, don't open the door while the choux pastry is baking. When it's done, switch off the oven but leave it closed. After 5 minutes open the door slightly, only the stick of a wooden spoon should fit in, and let the pastry dry for another 5 minutes (this way they keep their shape). Take them out of the oven and let them cool on a wire rack completely.

Prepare the cream puffs just before serving: cut off the tip, fill generously with vanilla cream and fruits and close with the lid again. Sprinkle with icing sugar (optional) and enjoy!

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SANDWICH, STARTER, TO COOK, BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH, FISH AND SEAFOOD SANDWICH, STARTER, TO COOK, BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH, FISH AND SEAFOOD

A Nordic Herring Sandwich with Beetroot, Pear and Walnuts

A few years ago we went to a green island in the Baltic sea called Rügen. It was one of those spontaneous holidays that turned into four perfect days of beach and forest walks, late breakfasts and long nights by the fireplace with a mug full of steaming mulled wine on our laps, it was great. A friend offered us her cute little house right behind the cliffs, the cottage was surrounded by dense trees and total silence. Although the strong November storms had just started we wrapped ourselves in our warm jackets and scarves up to our eyes to discover this quiet island. One of our culinary finds was Rügen's delicious seafood,  fresh, smoked and pickled, especially the herring is of excellent quality!

When I went on an aimless shopping trip a few days ago, I made a great discovery! With excitement I spotted jars with Rügen's pickled herrings in one of the grocery stores in my area. Within a split second I could see it right in front of me, a pink sandwich, Nordic style with a sour herring and beetroot salad, thick beetroot slices, pear, walnuts and dill. I chose some crunchy potato buns at the bakery and, back at home, I put the roots on the hob immediately. My kitchen impatience called for a sandwich!

A Nordic Herring Sandwich with Beetroot, Pear and Walnuts

For 4 sandwiches you need

  • hearty white buns, cut in half, 4

  • beetroot (with skin) 200g / 7 ounces

  • bay leaf 1

  • pickled herring (of good quality!), boned, drained and cut into thick strips, 200g / 7 ounces

  • sour cream or yoghurt 2 heaping tablespoons

  • olive oil

  • salt and pepper

  • crisp pear, cored and sliced, 1

  • dill, snipped, a small bunch, for the topping

  • walnuts, broken into small pieces, 4-6, for the topping

Cook the beetroots in salted water with 1 bay leaf for about 50-60 minutes or until al dente. Peel the roots and purée 1/3 of the them with 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a blender and season with a little salt. Cut the remaining roots into thick slices and coat with olive oil.

Mix the herring with the sour cream and 1 heaping tablespoon of the puréed beetroot.

Brush the bottom of the buns with a little olive oil and lay 3 slices of beetroot on top. Put some of the herring salad and a bit more of the puréed beetroot on top. Gently cover with pear slices and sprinkle with walnuts and dill.

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